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2006 Pacific Northwest Vacation -- July 23 through August 12, Part 4

Index

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My 2006 Pacific Northwest Vacation. Highlights included Lewis and Clark, the Tetons, Chief Joseph Scenic Highway, and a bunch of volcanoes. Lowlights included a motorcycle rally, a broken exhaust pipe and my car getting bit by a bear. 21 days, 6,700 miles.
In 2001, we left the Northeast Entrance, and drove the Beartooth Highway, an absolutely magnificent drive through the Beartooth Mountains. Chief Joseph Scenic Highway (aka the Sunlight Basin Road) was supposed to be just as scenic, and it is. Perhaps not as impressive as the Beartooth Highway, but scenic none-the-less. It offers views of Heart Mountain and Clarks Fork of the Yellowstone, which is a misnomer, since Clark was never on this portion of the river.

We stopped at the inpolitically correct Dead Indian Hill, where legend has it that a wounded Nez Pierce warrior was left behind and killed by Army scouts as the Nez Pierce fled the area. This essentialy the same trail I was on in Washington through the Bitterroots.

Chief Joseph Scenic Highway
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If you leave Yellowstone or the surrounding area though Cody, WY and are heading East, chances are you'll cut across US-14 to I-90. If instead, you take US-14a, you'll go through the Bighorn National Recreation Area. We were directed that way by the local people, and have never taken US-14. You'll see a lot of wildlife through the Bighorn National Forest, as well as some beautiful views of the countryside.

It was here that the impact of being in the area of the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally began to show itself. Not only were there a lot of motorcycles, but there were no hotel rooms, either. We spent the night in some fly-by-night motel in Sheridan. Stealing another hotel's wireless internet, we searched for a room for the next night, and only found one in Hot Springs, SD, about 50 miles South of Rapid City, 50 miles out of our way, and at three times the normal price.

I was also through this area in 1998.

Bighorn Canyon NRA
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August 8, 2006, Day 17

I was last at Devils Tower National Monument in 1998, and was pretty disgusted with myself for having more pictures of prarie dogs than of the rock.

Well, this time we actually walked all the way around the Tower. Which is longer than one might imagine. And no, there's no landing field on the other side... :-)

On the way out, we were going to stop in a the store, but with over a hundred motorcycles parked in front of it, we just went on our way. Did I mention you shouldn't come close to the Black Hills during the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally?

Devils Tower National Monument
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I had wanted to go to Deadwood and Lead, if for no other reason than to see the places, but Stugis had ruined that for us as well. Don't *ever* go to the Black Hills during the Rally. (I think I've said that before.) Since we were forced so far South for a room, we were pretty close to Wind Cave National Park, and stopped in.

We didn't have time for a cave tour in 1996, but this year, with the bikers around, we bypassed some planned stops. We arrived at the Visitors Center, and found a cave tour was leaving in 5 minutes. Sold! We went out to the car, grabbed some water and jackets, and left on a two hour tour.

It was a cool place to visit, with smaller and twistier passages than Carlsbad Caverns.

Wind Cave National Park
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August 9, 2006, Day 18

One actual benefit of the Sturgis Motorcycle Rally, is there are so many motorcycles going through the North part of Custer State Park, that all the wildlife flees South.

So coming up through the Park from Wind Cave National park, we saw an abundance of animals ranging from Buffalo to wild turkeys to proghorn antelope to deer, and the ever present burros...

This is the third time through the park, the other times in 1996 and 1998.

Custer State Park, South Dakota
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We got to Mount Rushmore about 10:00am, after they opened, but before the majority of the bikers got there. The day started sunny, but was overcast by the time we got the Monument. So my pictures from 1996 are superior to these, but the Memorial's visitor center and other buildings were still under construction then.

Mount Rushmore National Memorial
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I've been to Badlands National Park twice before, in 1996 and 1998. I don't know what it is about this area, but it's always *hot*. It was probably between 90 and 100 degrees in 2006, and I'm sure the bikers were suffereing. At that temperature, moving just blows hot air around you. If you have a convection oven, you know what I mean.

Badlands is a beautiful park, one of those places that show the awesome force of erosion over the past few thousand years.

I mentioned this in my 1996 report, but if you're in the area, stop in at Wall Drug for lunch.

Badlands National Park, South Dakota
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So my 2006 Northwest trip taught me a few things. First, don't go near the Black Hills during the motorcycle rally. At first you think 'How bad could it be?', but reality sets in when you get there, and you can't believe the number of bikers, nor the fact that they close entire towns to bikers only.

Second, unless you're retired, a three week vacation is just a bit to long. I suppose if you stop at fewer places, it wouldn't be so bad, but there's just so many amazing things to do and see...

Third, I still can't figure out how Lewis and Clark did it. It did take them 2 and a half years to do what I had just done in three weeks, but I had all the modern conveniences of the 21st century. They and the Corps of Discovery truly deserve to be counted among the early heroes of America.

I would definately count my 2006 trip one the best road trips of my life.

End 2006 Pacific Northwest Vacation Part 4
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